Northcote at The Star Inn The City

A dinner championed by great talent, craftsmanship, guidance and above all, friendship.

We returned to Star Inn the City to attend a special evening hosted by the innovative restaurant with special guest, Nigel Haworth of Northcote.
Director of Operations, Matt Hunter, trained under Nigel at Northcote and was working in the kitchen during Obsession 07, alongside Nigel and Andrew Pern of Star at Harome, which then lead to a supreme partnership and opportunity to become head chef at Star Inn the City. And as they say, the rest is history.

This night was in every way a celebration of team commitment, a shared vision of culinary excellence and Nigel’s impeccable influence.
On arriving, the atmosphere was warm and headed up by a short intro from chef-proprietor Andrew who welcomed Nigel to York. Nigel shared his inspiration behind the menu – explaining that the dishes were inspired from old and new dishes at Northcote and Star Inn the City. The Lancashire influence was also present in the ingredient choices, from Northcote Blackcurrants to our favourite Eccles Cakes. There was far away inspiration in the form of Dashi caviar inspired by Nigel’s time travelling.

Nigel concluded by sharing a question he is often asked, what is your favourite ingredient at this time of year? “Apples by far, there are so many varieties available”.
And, that set the imagination off, wondering just where the apple would appear on the menu.

As canapes began arriving, the kitchen was alive with dedicated teams set up at each station ahead of the action. We were treated to Goosnargh Chicken Liver Parfait, Grape Jelly and Sour Dough toast served on Star’s signature woodland blocks.

Heading into the kitchen as the salmon dish was being prepared, a careful assembly line was in place, and as Andrew laid out the fish with precision, Head Chef Michael Wilkinson began searing the scallops, carefully guided by Nigel. As the dish hit the pass, we anticipated the next.
The caramelised celeriac and chestnut ravioli dish followed, served with celeriac tea and perfect trompettes. This dish came at the perfect time to appreciate those subtle undertones of celeriac on the palate, and seasonal chestnuts and trompettes making an Autumn presence.

Ahead of the main course, momentum had stepped up inside the kitchen – all hands were on deck to deliver a showstopper. The first glimpse of the stunning and true to form butter puff pastry wrapped lamb was enough to excite. Paired with a succulent spinach and Jerusalem artichoke – this was no doubt a true highlight.
Dessert was not one to be missed, and this is where the magic happened. As the Bramley Apple Cheesecake – shaped just like an apple, diners were almost transported into Nigel’s orchard. You could almost imagine picking your own apples from the tree, and admiring the plentiful harvest around.

The apple was accompanied by an indulgent Blackcurrant Liquorice and decorated with delicate herbs and flowers cementing the fact this dish was indeed very pretty on the eye. The first bite was sharp, but as the cocoa butter shell exploded and cheesecake melted it was just an absolute sensation.
Followed by a final nod to Lancashire heritage – Eccles Cakes!

What better way to celebrate a coming together of great heritage and food?
Nigel, Andrew, Matt and the team at both Star Inn the City and Northcote had produced an evening full of taste, inspiration and style. Much like Nigel’s undeniable influence and inspiration on the culinary world.

As always it is a real delight seeing Wellocks produce showcased on the menu.